The last night is spent at Riad Dar One an excellent and well placed riad for £60, the roof terrace is perfect after a day exploring the souks.

Our last meal of course has to be Moroccan, must be on a roof terrace and surely involve puffing on a shisha (hubbly bubbly pipe)! Le Tanjia provides all the above and more.

The Terrace is sumptious and has great views of the city, the cocktails are just what the doctor ordered and set us up for a great evening. We order the house special which is a shoulder of Lamb for two to share, it had been slow roasted so the meat was tender, herbs and spices had infused the meat perfectly and in truth there was enough to feed a family of four! Not wanting to insult our hosts and in a fit of Yorkshire honour I finish the lot!

After coffee and deserts we round the night off with a shisha, the staff regurlary replace the hot coals whilst we smoke and finish our wine.

All in all a good end to an interesting ten days!

Dead people or at least their graves somehow make the must see list in all major cities. We start the day at "Tombeux Sadiens", at the north of the Kasbah, walled gardens, carved Arabesque arches and multicoloured tiled graves provide a cheap and peaceful way to kill (sorry!) an hour before the walk to "Palais Bahai". Here walled gardens, carved Arabesque arches and multicoloured tiled floors... OK so there is a theme here but it is worth it!

Cut through the Spice souk to get to Palais Bahia, the aroma and variety on offer are amazing. I'm not sure if the vendors seriously expect to sell me a demi-kilo of saffron but they get full marks for effort. Come early afternoon the temperature is pushing the low 40's, body and mind are somewhat heated so the Riad pool & a siesta beckons. This is July, it's hot and hence low season. Head here in April for an easier if more expensive visit.

One of the 7 wonders of the modern age, outdoor air con, a fine waterery mist sprayed into the air. We're at Kosybar for a sundowner before dinner, in the end we spend the evening and have a fine meal here. People watching comes a close second to bird watching, huge nests balance on every minaret, every ancient wall. The resident stalks watch the sunset with us, then once dusk arrives they take to the air to join darting swallows in thier own people watching ritual.

We fly three and a half hours and travel a thousand years.

We have just landed in Marrakesh, capitol of Morocco.

There can be no where else so close to England yet so culturally different, so unusual and so Biblical! Outside the Medina walls there are western hotels, karaoke bars and even a pizza hut. If this is your thing stay in London.

Within the Medina, narrow lanes crowded with bikes, donkeys, handcarts & street hawkers portrait the real Maroc, Marrakesh comes alive. Every arch, every alley promises a secret told only to the intrepid, there is only one way to experience this and that is to throw yourself at it, Marrakesh after all will throw itself at you!

We head for a favorite bar, The KosyBar in Place Des Ferbianders and immediately are lost in the Kasbah streets. As is often the case here hopelessly lost and wandering the streets we stumble on our destination. A good directional sense is a must, better than any map! After a tasty lunch we head back to Riad Alma for a siesta, and catch up from the 2 am start.

A reservation on the roof terrace of Cafe Arabé delivers an excellent meal in a great modern Arabic ambiance, this is a definite recommend for anyone wanting to gently break themselves into a Marrakesh visit.

Our taxi driver, Milo takes it upon himself to teach us a little Arabic and the locals more so here than other destinations love it when you greet & thank them in their own tongue. A little French though will ease you through a visit here.