We check into the Ocean Vagabond hotel just outside the old city walls and close to the beach. It's a small place with 15 or so well presented rooms and excellent friendly staff, in fact the most attentive staff anywhere, EVER!

200 years ago Essaouira was one of west Africa's major ports now it aims to be a major holiday destination. A long wide & clean sandy beach runs the length of the bay and a constant (actually, reliable) sea breeze as well as keeping the temperature in the mid 20s brings kite & windsurfers here from the world over.

The beach is long enough and wide enough to easily accommodate all comers. Beach football goes on day and night (floodlights & crowds included), the surfer dudes rip up the waves whilst families sojourn on the clean fine sands.

The old port with its many blue fishing boats, fish market & general goings on is a must, then on to the fort (10 dirhams entry) make this your first route into the Medina and you can't fail to be amazed at the view opening out before you as you walk from the port through the fort's archway. Tomorrow we will head into the heart of the city to explore.