living life whilst the world spins

Homeward Bound

2010-04-02T11:49:00.000Z

140 days, 44 destinations & 15 flights. We've been on planes trains, trams, trucks and cars, yachts, ferries, catermarans, canoes, bikes, tuk tuks and even a louge! We've met new friends and old friends, seen sun, snow, lightning, rain and even sheltered from hurricanes and tsunamis.

It's been amazing.

What will life in Ampthill feel like?

home sweet home!

The Longest Day

2010-03-24T22:02:00.011Z

After Spending Sunday by the pool, having lunch then dinner we head out to the airport for our late flight to LA.

We take off at 11.30pm, That's Sunday finished right? Wrong! We hit the 'International Date Line' just after take off and the clock goes back 20 hours and suddenly it's the early hours of Sunday morning with a full day ahead and somehow I've missed a nights sleep.It's not all bad though, we land at LAX just in time for another Sunday lunch (woo hoo) with plenty of time to indulge as we have a 10 hour stop-over (boo).

We then board our next flight (to Orlando) at 10.30 pm, it is a quick 4 hour hop BUT the clocks change again and we land at 6am. Somehow I've missed another nights sleep?

So according to my calender, We left Fiji late Sunday night and arrived Orlando early Monday morning. Overnight, We've had TWO sundays (and meals of course), Two flights and not slept for 50odd hours!

Our heads and screwed up.

The storm before the calm

2010-03-18T09:11:00.001Z

The raging wind whipped up the rain and battered our bure, even the insects took refuge indoors! It was a pleasant shock to have a praying mantis fly in, land on my hand and turn it's eyes my way with a look that said 'let me have 5 minutes, I'm knackered flying about out there'.

Fortunately Tomas span away from the mainland and spared us it's wrath. In fact it raced away sucking the rain clouds along with it, leaving us with the calm AFTER the storm!

Quite surreal really, it's very hot, there's no breeze at all and Tomas feels like a fast fading dream.

Location:Fiji

A moment in time

2010-03-14T06:12:00.001Z

I'm standing in knee deep water 20 meters out with coral gardens around me, 100 or so meters to my right waves crash on the barrier reef, the sky is blue the ocean turquoise. Facing forward 30+ mph winds buffet me, to my left those same winds have pushed angry clouds on to the lush green hills of Fiji. Black tipped reef shark circle me oblivious to the oncoming huricane.

This is why we travel, moments like this priceless yet free.
Who knows what tomorow will bring, live life now I say.

Ouch

2010-03-13T19:26:00.001Z

Big and bad

Riteshni Singh And Ana Niumataiwalu
Sunday, March 14, 2010
TOMAS intensified to a category three hurricane overnight with damaging gale force winds extending to about 280-370km from its centre.

Fiji Meteorological Service director Rajendra Prasad said it was expected to develop further into a category four hurricane before landfall, projected to be in the northern and eastern parts of Fiji later tonight.

As people in the projected path of the destructive winds battened down for the worst, emergency services were put on full alert around the country.

The effects of the system will be felt within the next 36 hours, Mr Prasad said.

At 2pm yesterday, the category two Tropical Cyclone (TC) Tomas was located at about 570km north-northeast of Udu Point.

Mr Prasad said the system was slow moving and it was not a good sign for Fiji.

"It gains strength along the way," he said.

He said TC Thomas had maintained its intensification trend and was estimated to have average winds of 55 knots (100km/hr) and momentary gusts of up to 80 knots (150km/hr) close to its centre.

According to its new projected path, Tomas is expected to start affecting Fiji from early Monday.

"Associated strong winds and rain bands will arrive later tomorrow (Sunday)," he said.

Last night, the National Disaster Management Office advised people to take the warning seriously, saying this could be the worst Fiji has seen.

Location:Fiji

Bula, bula

2010-03-13T00:01:00.000Z

Our first glimpse of a new country and one we have never been to before is from the plane, tropical beaches and lush hills await.

Bula (or welcome/hello) always accompanied by a smiling face. Welcome to the friendliest country, and welcome we are.
Tropical paradise but it's rainy season not that anyone has told the weather gods, the sky is blue and the sun is shining, the sunsets are amazing.

We are staying on a bure (booray) a thatched hut with shower and toilet, directly on the beach. After 7 weeks camping this is luxury and in truth regardless it's pretty amazing.

We have 5 days & nights here, the snorkelling is amazing, the coral not so good but the fish are many and varied, the water clarity excellent. Even the stingray we swam with was more exciting than scary!

Having said that, as I upload this we are cyclone warning from Cyclone Thomas which is heading in our direction...

Fiji

2010-03-11T23:37:00.002Z

Arrived in Fiji, all is well, weather good, diving great, internet poor. will upload blogs in due course...

Thanks for the memories...

2010-03-07T06:43:00.000Z

As the say 'Time & Tide wait for no man' it's so true! Just one day later I'm sat in a hammock on a beach in Fiji watching the sun set and suddenly New Zealand, all sevenish weeks of it are confined to memories, memories already fading. This in truth is what this blog is about, 'notes to self', an old decrepit self with a crap memory (no not now, somewhere down the line).

So some remenicing of our 9,000 kilometre ride around Kiwi Country...

Bites, bites and more bites. Unlike Oz nothing will kill you, but the little buggers will gang up and give it a good go. Kathy holds the records with in the order of 200 bites in one day and here I kid you not! After sunbathing on a sandfly nest she looked like a bikini model for 'Braille Weekly', we had to go to the chemist for advice. The chemist said 'i've never seen that before'. mmm, great!

Campsites, on the whole they put English campsites to shame. Here they have everything you need and more. People choose to live on them, not in a trailer park sort of way though, in a "I'm going to live next to the beach, in the mountains or on a lake (delete as appropriate) & not pay any household bills, not gonna buy washing machines, not worry about gardening etc etc.

Akaroa campsite has a 'no longer need' shelf. People leave food, odd bits of camping gear and other random stuff. Checkout is 10am, between 9.30 & 10.30 a couple of old buzzards of the 'we've retired to a campsite' variety circle the leftovers shelf, swooping in to nab anything of any use or resale value. Which is in my book, a little off and against the spirit of us 'real' campers! You have no idea how tempted I was to lace a couple of cans of rice pudding laced with extra strong laxative and leave it for the old purple rinced vultures!

Kiwi roads, there are motorways, some even have two lanes but don't get excited they don't last long. Many of the 'A' roads have single lane (rickety wooden) bridges, one way has priority, the other gives way (in theory but try arguing with a logging truck). By far the best though is the main highway just south of Hokitika, not only does it narrow to a single lane, it has a bloody train track running along it! I waited and looked, looked and waited then went like a bat out of hell!
It's no wonder that in many places beaches are used as the highway!

Green, Blue & White. The land, the sky, the sea, the surf, the clouds, the plants all come in a variety of green, blue and white. The air is so clear everything is so vivid, beautiful and don't even get me started on the star studded night sky.

Quirky, for a Brit abroad the Kiwis are a bit quirky, and Wanaka's Cinema Paradiso demonstrates this perfectly. Half time intermission and drinks and meals are delivered to your seat, a seat which could be anything from an old armchair through barber chair to the front seats of an open top beatle. Get there early for the choice of armchair, oh and book - it only seats 40 or 50 people. The still warm fresh baked cookies are a must at half time!

Political Incorrectness, if you are one of the loony PC brigade from the UK, stay well away! It's quite refreshing to have Tv and Radio presenters say what they (& you) are really thinking. "freedom campers, they are vermin and should be shot", "85th in the Olympic downhill, that's crap but at least she got a free holiday", bugger that, $hit and other mild swearing.

Anyway, bugger this blogging lark I'm on my hols and the sun is shining...

The Route

2010-03-06T09:17:00.000Z

Next stop Fiji
more...

WeyHey & HeyHey

2010-03-03T03:39:00.001Z

WeyHey & HeyHey, actually Weihi & Hahei are our last two camping stops in NZ!

Thirtysomething days under canves, 14 campsites & well over 5000km north to south east to west have brought us here.
It has been fantastic, all but 3 or 4 days have been glorious weather.
So Weihi, top end of the Bay of Plenty - yet more beaches that go on for miles, Scenic reserves at every turn and a bay promised to be full of stingrays but actually full of starfish.
We have a couple of nights here, the first night the wind really tested the campers. Next doors tent bent double & ready to fly, all hands on deck to sort it. We gave up, the tent was no match for the gale, fortunately the chap had a second option - a small 2 man tent better able to stand the wind, especially with his wife and 2 kids crammed in, cozy.

Last morning at Weihi and an 8am 'Goodmorning Campers' over the tanoy, closely followed by a 'due to an earthquake in Chile, we are on Tsunami alert with the wave due to hit in 25 minutes'!
Not the sort of wake up call We really wanted, anyway a bunch of people headed for high ground and the rest of us headed to the beach with our cameras (I hasten to add that by this time the 'wave' was expected to be 'about a meter'). The east coast beaches were officially closed, unofficially the surfer dudes all headed out to play, in the end though it was much of a muchness, not even a photo op.

Hahei and the coves up from there are spectacular, cliffs, islands, sub tropical flora, white sands and blue sea. We loll around on the beach, swim, picnic and wander back and forth the 20 meters to the tent & cool box for cold drinks. It's a hard life.
Hot water beach is a few Ks down the road, geothermal steam escapes through the beach sand. At low tide people troop down with spades dig holes on the beach which then fill up with steaming hot water -instant free spa pool!

We head on down (sans shovel), loiter near some pink overcooked yanks and jump in their pool when they leave - easypeasy!

Laws of Camping:

2010-02-25T18:54:00.001Z

1: the more tent pegs you hammer in, the less windy it will be.
2: the more rain gear you carry, the sunnier the weather.
3: you can't fill the ice box with beer and still get ice in, you must leave some room.
4: the rustling of the tent at night is only the wind NOT a man eating bear.
5: the further away from the toilet block the greater the frequency of night time peeing required (nothing to do with rule 3).

Life's a beach

2010-02-22T21:50:00.001Z

I'm staring out across the pacific, at the horizon aquamarine turns sky blue. There's a loan kite surfer riding the breakers, he has the ocean to himself.

The golden sand stretches for miles either side of me, I can see one guy walking his dog and that's it. We're not miles from anywhere, we are just 10km east of Gisborne (Hawkes Bay, New Zealand).

Oh hang on, that bloke with the dog is wearing a bikini so either I need my eyes testing or he needs a new hobby...

Today is Kathy's birthday and with a touch of extravagance we eat out (a full cooked breaky) and tonight we will dine on a fish n chip supper with cheap fizzy plonk. Which considering that our meals of late have been fixed on a one ring camping stove is pure luxury.

Location:Otuki

Weather Chasing and other random stuff...

2010-02-16T20:40:00.001Z

So we motored coast to coast leaving the big mountains behind and rocking up at Dunedin 'Top 10' for a night in a cabin. Umm'd and arr'd whether to stay a couple of nights or crack on. Weather forecast won out, we hit the road first thing and tracked the ocean all morning.

Huge spherical boulders litter the beach at Moeraki, it's out of the way but somehow managed to draw the coach parties who all dilligently queue up for photos. We though ignore that, climb up and strike various poses atop God's marbles.

Ever onward, we push on and have lunch in Omarau, again decide not to overnight and with one last big push make it to Akaroa, and pitch up the tent high up on a hill overlooking this little 'French' harbour town.

A French ship's captain 'bought' the penisula from the Maori then shipped a bunch of settlers over. The Brits soon sorted all that nonsense out but the town still has many 'Rues' and has a bouchier, boulangerie & flies the French flag!
A couple of nights here then we pushed on to Kiakora, sealife capital of NZ.

Kiakora up to Picton, four nights camping & sightseeing, up early for the ferry and that's that. South island 'done'!

Location:Picton, Marlborough, New Zealand

Milford Sound Boyo

2010-02-09T22:26:00.001Z

Accidentally discovered by a Welshman, lost in a storm and named after Milford Haven, his home town. Right that's the history lesson, now for the present...

Dark brooding clouds hang over the horizon and there is rain in the air, the first for three weeks - it could just spoil the Milford Sound cruise!

The drive in from Te Anau was fabulomundouso (I've run out of superlatives so I'm making them up), foot hills surrounding the lakes give way to vertical cliff faces, water cascading down from snow, piled high on the peaks. The wind chases the angry clouds away and the sun makes it's appearance.

Glaciers, cut these valleys and they did a bloody good job. Snow melt gathers to form creeks, creeks to form rivers which in turn cut their own way through the land.

Kathy heeds the danger signs...

Before clambering into the ice caves for the obligatory photo op ( who said she would not try dangerous sports!)

A smile or a worried grimace?

We're lucky, the wind drops and Mitre peak is reflected in all it's glory.

Our boat (Milford Mariner) and berth for the night cruises in, we board and set out for the next adventure.
We cruise, we kayak (kathy is spectacularly bad at this), we swim, dine, drink & collapse into bed at 10.30! Early? In fact we and new Berliner friends are the last to bed, somehow the rest of the guests are a SAGA party and we are the youngsters!

Breaky starts at 7am, the early to bed, early to rise SAGA bunch are already circling the buffet, fortunately there's food aplenty.

We cruise back through the sound as the sun rises over the mountains, dolphins and seals chase the boat's bow wave and treat us to some acrobatic showmanship.

A great way to end the cruise, and we still have that amazing scenic drive to get back to civilization!

2010-02-08T21:01:00.000Z

On a boat on Milford sound, pointing camera randomly at water, then this happened...

Rather pleased I had the camera on a fast shutter with continuous shooting...

Wonderous Wanaka

2010-02-08T05:08:00.001Z

The lake could be frozen, it's a mirror. The sun rises, warming the air, a breath of wind plays across the lake. The dawn magic fades away with the morning dew.

We're camping on the shore of Lake Wanaka, it's magical. I go for a walk to catch a dawn photo but I'm not alone, just as I find the right spot a power boat pulling a wakeboarder crashes the serenity!

Oh well, it's a different sort of picture but it'll do.

We head out for a walk in west Wanaka, I found a track, overgrown and unused it promises that feeling of discovery, of solitude.

Err, end of the road!

Route 6

2010-02-03T00:13:00.001Z

Forget Route 66, if you want a drive of epic proportions, varied and spectacular scenery with the odd surprise along the way then drive highway 6 down New Zealand's west coast then inland across Mt Aspiring national park to Wanaka.
We start out at Hokitika leaving the beach art behind us and head south.

Woven reeds form the fish scales, it's bones are driftwood.

Thousands of stone monuments along Bruce Bay, and of course we added ours!

We drive along ocean roads with endless beaches to our right and snow capped mountains to our left, single lane rickety bridges carry is over crystal clear mountain snow melt rushing down to the sea, the sun is out and somehow the blues are bluer, greens greener and the air sweeter.

We turn east, inland and start the climb into the mountains. Waterfalls cascade in to gorges cut deep from the power of the white water. As if the single views are not enough, mountain lakes mirror the scenery doubling the spectacle.

I have to use major will power not to stop at every photo op, if I did this 6 hour drive would take a week ( a good week, but we have an agenda of sorts).
We arrive at Wanaka as the evening draws in, the lake is still and the town is buzzing. It's grown in the 5 years since our last visit, still beautiful, still small enough to get to know and offers all year round outdoor adventure.

Lake Wanaka.

Location:Ardmore St,Wanaka,New Zealand

Hokitika

2010-01-31T09:44:00.000Z

After four fab days on the north coast we are heading south to the big mountains. With 2 big drives to get there an overnight break on the west coast is a must. Most people go for Greymouth (which unfortunately lives up to it's name) or Franz Joseph for a glacier visit. We though have opted for a couple of nights in Hokitika and it is quite a find!
There's a driftwood scuplture competition on the beach.

My fave was the Flintstones bike but the winner was a minature sand dune sculpture...

Inland a few miles and Hokitika gorge is beautiful, the water is unaturally blue, luminous in fact and contrast with the White rocks.

Waterfalls on way back...

And a late picnic on a deserted beach. The west coast beaches go on for ever, the waves crash in, the sun shines and snow capped mountains line the horizon - amazing!

We finish the day with fish 'n' chips on Hokitika front watching the sun set turning the sky every shade of red, purple and orange.

Location:Bealey St,Hokitika,New Zealand

Abel Tasman National Park, North of the South Island

2010-01-30T02:15:00.000Z

Abel Tasman Coastal walk, 5 day tramp through beautiful scenary...

We did a couple of days walking only...

Look carefully below, you should make out Kathy looking for a quite spot on the beach...

And this was the shortcut off the beach...

Troubled Waters

2010-01-28T07:31:00.000Z

Cooke Strait, the crossing between NZ's two largest islands has a reputation for ferocity, oceans collide & sailers beware.

We though sail out of Wellington on a calm evening and weave our way into Picton as the sun sets. Quite Amazing...

Location:Cooke Strait, New Zealand

Hunting For Hobbits

2010-01-27T07:58:00.000Z

We have a NZ guide book and it points out the LOTR locations (if you don't get the 'LOTR' acronym don't come to NZ, it's a religion over here).

Anyway, we head for Rivendell, with a view to getting some pics of the Hobbits, Elves and other such Fairè folk. Now call me an old softy but it was a little upsetting to get here and find "Poison, don't interfere with the bait & don't handle the carcasses" signs everywhere! Those poor little Hobbits, they put this bloody place on the map, what sort of a way is that to treat 'em?

Poor Frodo, battles the Nazgul, defeats the dark lord Sauron, destroys The One Ring and then slain by a cheese sarny with a bit of rat poison in it! That's not going to make much of a plot for the fourth film is it!

Location:Rivendell, MiddleEarth AKA

Water and Steam

2010-01-23T07:17:00.012Z

oday was water themed.

This morning it rained, then it rained some more.

But by 1pm the rain died out and the sun started to show, just as we started out on the Huka Falls River walk, home of the Huka Falls Jet Boat (lucky given its name!).

We were going jet boating, but had decided that the Huka Falls trip was too tame! So after an hours walk here we moved on to the next stop, the Aratiatia Dam and the rapids.

This was our first look at what we were going 'boating' on.

Then we went boating, a sedate ride on the river...

This area is very volcanic, so on the way home we stoped off at the geothermal park "Craters of the Moon". NO, NO, come on get in the spirit! read again this time with a deep voice and a little echo please...

CRATERS OF THE MOOOOOON!

and finally, the sun set over lake Taupo...

Entertain yourself

2010-01-22T20:50:00.001Z

There is a lot of space in New Zealand and it's packed full of scenery, but not much else. Its big and the major towns are hours and hours apart, so it should cme as no surprise that when it comes to entertaining yourself the Kiwis invented some wacky stuff.

''I'm bored, what shall we do?''
''I've got a long bit of rubber''
''er, OK''
''Why don't we tie one end to that bridge and the other to our ankles and then jump off'''
''beats lookng at all this scenery''

and so the bungy jump was born!

but, not all the wacky stuff was so full on...

"I have a sheep, let's paint it pink"

"I need a sign, let's paint one"
"wait, I have some corrugated steel, let's make the sign out of that"

"Hey, you got any more of that corrugated stuff"

"yeah, loads. Why?"

"I have a barn"...

"Hey, your not the only one with a barn"

"sweet as, bro!"

New Zealand week one

2010-01-20T00:51:00.000Z

Quick update as wifi is hard to find here...

A few days enjoying Auckland, the harbour etc then off to stay with friends.
Great hospitality from Kay & Sean with entertainment thrown in from Georgina and Fin.

After loading up the hire car with all their camping gear we are now up at Doubtless Bay under canvas, with mixed weather very hot and sunny with the occasional burst of rain.

The First Campsite

Crikey Cobber

2010-01-13T09:44:00.000Z

Three weeks in
Oz, we're at the airport leaving for NZ and reflecting on a whole raft of experiences!

Christmas day in summer, Avatar on the world's largest IMAX screen, New Years eve on a boat on the harbour, The 'Great' Ocean Road.
We've seen Roos by the dozen, Koalas, cockatoos, parrots and even shared a drive with a huntsman spider! We've had barbies in the bush, ridden on trams and tasted wine in the Yarra Valley. We've even had Melbourne's hottest night on record.

Even had the fright of our lives when Qantas wouldn't let us on the flight to NZ as we had no onward ticket out!

We sorted so next stop New Zealand for a month of camping.

Location:Melbourne Airport

Koalas will never take over the world...

2010-01-11T04:47:00.000Z

If you go down to the woods today, your sure to get a surprise. Not from the Koalas though, these little fellas have the art of sleeping in trees down to a tea! What's more they don't give two hoots if you wander by within touching distance.

This bunch were all in the Bush forest east of Echuca on the Murrey River.

So that's the bears ticked off the list, next the Roos!

Location:Echuca, Victoria, Australia

The Great Ocean Road Swindle

2010-01-07T10:53:00.000Z

The 'Great Ocean' Road, well yes there's a road and there's an Ocean & to be fair it's probably a great ocean, but an amazing drive with sweeping ocean vistas it is not. What is more, even the famous 12 Apostles are not all that - especially as at least one has succumbed to the ravages of the waves and toppled over!

Anyway, here's the obligatory photo from the viewing platform that the other hundreds of people were also at...

And just to prove we actually made it there...

In truth the road more often than not is a fair way from the shore and cuts it's way through beautiful rolling country side, snatches of primeval rainforest and eucalyptus trees.

We stopped among the eucalyptus for Koala spotting, which probably is a sorce of bemusement for Aussies who must see Koalas regularly.

Having not seen them in the wild on our last travels around Oz, we were chuffed to get ip close this time, though we have not ticked Roos of the 'seen em' list this trip.

Throughout our drive, we have a companion 'Harry' the Huntsman, at least we hope he is a huntsman as they aren't venomous.

Kathy did a double back flip with twist and expletives when she opened the hatchback to find Harry (about 3 inch across) waiting for his daytrip to the seaside!

We also had a mini hike on rainforest tracks, complete with giant ferns, parrots & waterfalls.

No, it's not a great ocean drive but there is loads to see and it's a million miles away from blighty.

Location:The Great Ocean Road, Victoria, South Australia

Oooh, aah! Sydney part three

2010-01-02T03:48:00.000Z

Avatar 3D on the worlds largest IMAX screen. WOW!!
I want to go visit Pandora.

As the year draws to a close we set out to Sydney Harbour to board 'the pontoon' boat for cocktails, canapés and cruising in the parade of lights. The weather has bucked the forecast, the skies have cleared and we have an orangy red sunset as the backdrop for the opera house.

The boat doesn't dissapoint, free flowing champers and tray after tray of fancy food (which continued for the 7 hours we were aboard). We set sail at 7.30pm and take our place out on the water - we are not early, there are actually 2 firework displays here. the first at 9pm for the families and the biggie at midnight.

On the hour, every hour leading up to the big event a bunch of rockets light up the harbour and crank up the excitement.

The 9pm fireworks are pretty impressive and set the scene for the big event. Between shows we sail up and down the harbour as part of the parade, each boat lit up with various designs. Dinner is served and more champers is drunk.

The main event is no dissapointment, it all kicks off at midnight and what a show! Explosions everywhere, rockets shoot from the top of skyscrapers, explosions light up the opera house and fire rains down from the bridge!

And it just keeps on coming, fifteen minutes of shock and awe ends with a finale which lights up the city and the harbour!

We and I think the other 1.5 million people craming boats, buildings and riverbanks bring in the New Year with a bang!

Happy New Year, one and all.

What a difference a day makes, Sydney part two

2009-12-29T10:03:00.001Z

Sun shining, boat rides in the sun, amazing views from the shoreline, walking around the botanical gardens, HUGE bats in the trees, sunset over the city and a burnt nose!

Whilst I'm on...

What's the deal with boats and waving? Why do people who take to the water feel the need to wave to everyone else in boats? Don't get me wrong it's a good thing, I can't help feeling though that the collective good will doesn't carry forward to the roads.

Ooh, but what if it did? Can you imagine the change in road rage to lane love. Go on, next time your on the road wave at the next driver and even shout 'yoohoo hallooo' as you wave.

Don't worry they will wave back, they won't give you a crazy person look...

Location:George St,Sydney,Australia

Sydney part one: crimbo

2009-12-28T12:50:00.000Z

Here we are in the unofficial capital of Australia and we are in shock.
ONE: it's summer but the weather is like an autumn day in blighty, the New Years Eve bash could be (an expensive) washout.
TWO: 2 out of every 3 faces are Asian, not a problem but just having spent 6 weeks in Asia we were hoping for a change.
THREE: it's bloody expensive!! BLOODY EXPENSIVE! A combination of the weak £pound and coming from a cheap Asia has not helped but crikey cobber everytime I buy a drink in a boozer I feel like I've been mugged.

Christmas is no 'biggie' here, probably because it is so multicultural and multifaith, we though after a boatride around the bay hit Darling harbour and eat at the rather splendid 'I'm Angus' for crimbo lunch. Oysters, prawn, squid & salmon kick start the meal with lamb rack and well hung steak for mains. Bubbly, a bottle of red and a cheese plate complete the festive feast and we stagger/waddle back to the hotel to slob.

Location:George St,,Australia

Merry Christmas one and all

2009-12-24T12:15:00.000Z

To all our friends, family and anyone who stumbles across this...

Location:Erskine Rd,Outram,Singapore

Singapore Sting!

2009-12-23T12:02:00.000Z

Large Beer @ koh phangan, Thailand £1.00

Next Day...

Large Beer @ Clark Quay, Singapore £6.60

Harbour Panarama

Location:Erskine Rd,Outram,Singapore

Firestarter

2009-12-21T12:01:00.001Z

Haad Yao beach, koh phangan

The guys at See Through Resort

I'm on my jollies,

2009-12-17T11:41:00.001Z

normal service will be resumed when I'm sober again...

Location:Thailand

Life's a Beach

2009-12-14T07:00:00.000Z

A taxi, a plane, a bus, a ferry and a jeep, 6 hours and we arrive in our second home "See Through Resort" Haad Yao on Koh Phangan. We booked in here for a few nights in April and loved it so much we stayed a couple of weeks, we have 9 nights this time.

We arrive to sad news though, one of the guys we met in April (Teh, the fire juggler) was stabbed and killed a few months ago-a young life wasted!

We meet up with Ang and Jun a couple who both work here and whom we have kept in regular contact with over the last 7 months. It's like we've never been away.

We arrived to rain, our first in the 4 weeks travelling but the first morning here is blue skies. The tide is high (which makes this a great place for snorkling the reef straight from the beach), the beer is cold and the food is good.
Which reminds me, gotta go...

The Streets of Bangkok

2009-12-13T06:58:00.000Z

Life is lived on the streets of Bangkok, it's not hidden away it is all there laid bare to be explored & experienced. Sexploitation is probably what now springs to mind but in truth life here revolves around food. You can not walk 5 paces without passing 2 or more food vendors of one description or another. The smells and the sounds of cooking are everywhere and if you don't like the idea of eating from a street stall, remember this is one place where you can see your food being cooked. We have a whole spit roast chicken from a stall parked outside KFC, it costs us £2 and we are asked "you want choppy chop" (halved and quatered with a cleaver). For desert is a bag of mini doughnuts from a few stalls up, a salad pick'n'mix and cold beers from the local supermarket and we are sorted for our last meal in Bangkok. All in for about a fiver!

Location:Charoen Nakhon Villa Soi 4,Khlong Ton Sai,Thailand

Teaching English Abroad

2009-12-08T16:01:00.002Z

So I'm cycling in a rural Cambodian village and some little kids see me coming and wave whilst shouting "bye bye, bye bye!!".

So I think, a little English lesson on the way past, so I wave back and shout "hello, hello" - at this point I am leaving them behind and they are now shouting "hello" and waving me off!

Oh well...

Location:Taphul Rd,Siem Reap,Cambodia

Ruined!

2009-12-06T09:51:00.003Z

Angkor Wat is just one of many!

Ruins and temples everywhere, if you are in to your archeology then a week would just scratch the surface. Three days is more than enough for us (lightweights), following in the footsteps if Indiana Jones & Lara Croft we explore ancient ruins over run with jungle creepers and trees who's roots intertwine with the Walls and buildings (Ta Prohm).

Bayan temple is famous for all the faces, though when we were there they were mainly Japanese and had cameras attached! And this is the trick to visiting, walk in the opposite direction to the tour groups, hunt out the quiter areas and if your luck is in hit the temples out of phase with the coach parties and you will have a very different experience!

We dropped lucky on some, Bauphon felt like we were there on our own and it was amazing, others were a bit of a battle.

Sien Reap, Angkor Wat - practicalities

2009-12-04T15:42:00.001Z

1. Beer(of the local variety) can be had from $0.50 a pop.
2. Food of all flavours is easy to find, good quality and cheap - similar but less spicy than Thai. Plenty of international choice should you need it.
3. Everything is one dollar, and I mean everything! 10 postcards, 4 bracelets, 2 beers, bottled water, tuk tuk to pub street $1 I go away (stop begging), $1, $1, $1...
4. You can get a 3 non consecutive day pass to the temples and it is the same price as the 3 consecutive day pass ($40).
5. You don't need a photograph for the pass, they take it and print the pass plus pic digitally (all included in price)
6. A tuk tuk will cost you $15 per day, standard price, so don't bother to barter.
7. A sunrise temple visit may sound serene and indeed that is what the other 2,000 people expected too!
8. The US dollar is the currency, it comes out of bank machines, everyone deals in dollars. The only time you will see Cambodian Riels is when a dollar needs splitting!
9. Walking or cycling - it's everyman for himself, just one big game of chicken!
10. There is more than just temples here (did I mention $0.50 beer).

Location:Taphul Rd,Siem Reap,Cambodia

One night in Bangkok and...

2009-12-01T13:18:00.002Z

Landing in Bangkok for us is like slipping in to a comfy pair of slippers (just for the record I don't own, and will never own a pair of slippers. Especially the blue ones with the fur lining. No sir, not me).

Thailand sells itself as the land of smiles, this is not just tourist nonsense (although I could just be a tourist who has fallen for the nonsense!). The Thais are generally and genuinly friendly, polite, happy and welcoming, a pleasant change over the past few weeks.

So what does one do with just one night in Bangkok?

Well, we jumped on the skytrain to Sala Daeng, took a walk through Lumphini park and ended up at Suan Lum night market. A few plates of various rice, noodles and currys followed by a walk around the stalls and we are ready for home.

Until we see 'doctor fish' (this is a new one on us, so must be tried). Dr Fish is not an old friend we have bumped in to, in fact it is a fish tank full of tiny fish who love to nibble the dead skin of the feet of anyone paying up the £3/15mins to relax whilst dangling feet in a sunken fish tank (strange but nice, ok take my word for it).

For sure though I for one will not be having the whitebait from the restaurant next door!!

Oh yes and anyone who was thinking 'one night in Bangkok, ping pong with Ting Tong in Pat Pong - ding dong' well get out of the gutter!

Cambodia in the morning, ping pong is apparently half the price...

What a dumpling!

2009-11-30T01:45:00.002Z

yangshoucookingschool.com was today's adventure.

With rabits, dogs, frogs & a managerie of other live animals you would be forgiven for thinking that we had arrived at the local pet shop but in fact this is the market and it's the first stop to pick up the ingrediants for the days cooking course. Thankfully dog was not on today's menu, in fact it is:

Egg Dumplings
Steamed Chicken with mushrooms
Egg plant (Yangshou style)
Stir fried pork in oyster source
Garlic green vegetables

In a farm house amidst the mountains we got stuck in to the lessons, eating each course alfresco with the other 7 students.
Egg dumplings with pork, mint and chilli filling was a revelation to our taste buds and will deffinately be number 41 on the menu at kathy's cafe on our return.

Later that night a few of our fellow culinary course mates met up at monkey janes for a beer or three and we eventually collapsed into bed at 2.30 am (not all of us together you understand). It was a great way to end our last day and night in china and are leaving with some amazing memories after what now appears to be a too brief visit.

Addopted

2009-11-28T00:08:00.023Z

Wow, wow and thrice wow!

Yesterday was great, the map was vaguely useful and we made it back to Yangshou safely after 20 odd miles on the bicyles. So it is with new found confidence we head out to 'Dragon Bridge' which is somewhere up the Yu Long river.

Having given up on the map and just at the point of being hopelessly off course (OK 'lost') cycling through various hamlets we are adopted by a Chinese lady who takes it upon herself to guide us the rest of the way.

Through ever more remote villages and weaving our way through paddy fields I wonder if we are being taken home as a present for grandad! (I'm sure we passed Ray Meers at one point). 90 minutes later we pop out at the 'bridge' where coincidently our new foster parent has a bamboo raft waiting to take us back down river. This is win/win as it was just what we are wanting, so all aboard for a serene ride back. And what a ride, spectacular, beautiful, awe inspiring.

It is just non stop, and thanks to the winding cross country single track to get us here, we are sharing the river with the odd fishermen and our raft poler (there is probably a Chinese word for gondalier- gondarier(?) erm maybe that's a disease!).

Er where was I, oh yes floating down the Yu Long on a bamboo raft amongst amazing Karst mountains. It's only in the last 5 minutes that we come across more tourists all Chinese and all who feel the need to wave, shout 'hello, where you from' and take our photograph.

With a last push over a particularly high weir, we are soaked, photopraphed again and dropped off on the riverbank, bikes an' all to make our way to the hotel.

All in all a pretty amazing day!

Yangshou, bless you!

2009-11-25T10:48:00.001Z

At last we hit rural China and it is well and truly on the backpacker route. The countryside is stunning and there are loads of activities to do, so given that we have been upgraded to a beautiful suite (for£28/night) I think we will be staying here a little longer.

In fact we have no choice, as yet we have not figured out how to get out of China!!

I got up early for a spot of dawn photography, it really is not too hard to get some great shots here given the scenery!

And now we have just had a full English and we are off to find bike hire for a day in the saddle.

And finaly, is this the most exotic Macdonalds in the world?

Rescued by the night Market

2009-11-22T15:23:00.001Z

The terrecotta army has the potential to be amazing but somehow it misses the mark, it's not their fault of course they are generally stood around not doing much!

It's just, well it's all a bit Disney - cheap Disney. You have to walk past the 700 shops, stalls & street hawkers and through half a dozen turnstiles to get to the show pits. Then there's the tourists spoiling the view (& the Chinese version of courtesy is somewhat er different), anyway eventually you get to the warriors.

Which are strangley similar to the hundreds of fake ones you had to walk by to get from the bus stop to the real things.

So having had an overnight train in and a flight out, this could be a costly detour so it's a bloody good job that Xi'an is more relaxed, has some decent sightseeing and an entertaining night market to add to the overall experience.

In the end I'm glad we came, the 'Army' is one of the historic wonders created at a time when art, quality and passion created such a spectical. It' just a shame the current regime did not surround with the same!

Next stop Guilin...

Bye Bye Beijing

2009-11-21T11:40:00.000Z

After the mad scramble to get our cabin on the overnight train to Xi'an I've time to reflect on Beijing.
It's an interesting city, certainly worth a 4 or 5 day stint and the 'great wall' is a must.

For the Chinese life is about food so go explore Dim Sum to Duck and beyond.

The Forbidden City and Tianeman Square will fill a day but the real highlight is a day trip to the Great Wall.

Pick your location carefully and start out early to avoid the crowds (Mu Tian Yu at 9am).
Drop in at a Tea House for a tasting (interesting despite all expectations) and spend an afternoon or evening at Olympic park, make sure you hang around till dusk when they light everything up.

Would I return, probably not would I recommend it, certainly!

Surviving Beijing

2009-11-19T09:58:00.000Z

1. Crossing roads: wait until the green man is flashing, which means run the gauntlet of crazed taxi drivers who consider it double points for pedestrians and triple for westerners!
2. Queuing: actually "ku'ing" is a martial art, only the fastest, meanest, kick ass survive (& the metro underground at rush hour - well it's your funeral).
3 Staring; hey, it's their country, their allowed! You may even be asked to be photographed with them (johny foriegner that you are).
4. Hocking up the phlegm: old blokes, young blokes, women , kids - they are all at it. Where ever they are! This must have taken over from ping pong as the national sport.
5. "Hello, do you speak Engrish": the answer to this is "non, francais" otherwise the nice smiley 'language students' will want to take you to a tea shop to practise their English with you. Oh yes and a tat shop and a museum and a restaurant and a ... well you get the drift.
6. There are nine million bicycles in Beijing: and they're all on the sidewalk, again triple points for western tourists!
7. Peking Duck: crispy aromatic duck it is not! (They just can't seem to cook Chinese food properly over here, not like we get at home). One (top duck) restaurant over here has perfected a super healthy recipe, the roast duck skin is dipped in sugar before eating it. The place is called 'Da Dong' which is coincidently the last sound your heart makes after the fourth piece.
8. If it lives, it's edible: snake on a stick, scorpian on a stick, sea horse on a stick, starfish on a stick... Donghuamen street 'snack street' the place to go for weird outdoor dining.
9. Smile at the locals: I think it freaks 'em out a little bit. especially the army guards (on every street corner).
10. Lists don't all have ten entries you know, frankly I am amazed you made it this far through this drivel. Go put the kettle on, 'strictly come celebrity get me back in Hello magazine on ice' is on in 5 mins...

Keep the red flag flying

2009-11-18T03:03:00.001Z

Tianamen square, interesting for all the wrong reasons but interesting all the same. We even had to go through x-rays and metal detectors just to get near the place! Next door was the forbidden city, but true to it's name we could not get in so we are going to try again tomorrow.
So back to the hotel through a park where the crinklies were doing the old slow motion Kung Fu (I could take 'em- probably).
One jetlag siesta later and we're off to Olympic park to see the birds nest, watercube, velodrome et all which is pretty impressive once they all light up (which is at 6pm should you ever find yourself stood around at 5.45 freezing your nadgers off wondering if they light em up - the buildings not your nadgers!).

Back in to town on the tube, which at rush hour being the only westerners is quite an experience with displays of that new martial art 'ku'ing' at every stop and train change the most entertaining.

I'm a nonentity get me out of here

2009-11-16T22:53:00.000Z

Bugs, fried starfish, live scorpians, snake kebab and my personal fave, centipede on a stick!
This ain't no bush tucker challenge though, this is Beijing night market and that's our dinner (OK we actually had big mac and fries, but I suspect it shared quite a few of the same raw ingredients).

The Forbidden Blogger

2009-11-16T08:18:00.000Z

OK so I am going to assume you can read this. Facebook, blogger and various other social networking sites are banned in china. But maybe this iPhone blogging hack will work...

We arrived safely, made it through immigrations (questions were asked about why we did not have confirmed travel plans to leave China) and we are now at the hotel, there is snow on the ground but the skies are blue.

Next door to the forbidden city!
We are going out for an English tonight!

leaving on a jet plane

2009-11-15T14:55:00.002Z

I'm leaving on a jet plane, and I really don't know when I'll be back again!
Although if I can't shake this cough and cold China may send me straight back home, with a thanks but no thanks to swine flu.
A little apprehensive, this trip is open ended - the plane to Beijing awaits and by this time tomorrow we will be in the forbidden city and No, I don't mean Coventry! After that,where ever the wind blows us.

So here we are at Heathrow and to start the trip in style we are at the champagne bar and maybe a little cavier to go with it.

Around the world

2009-08-24T19:41:00.000Z

It's almost that time again, heading east keeping going until we get home...

oooooh, aaaaaah!

2008-01-01T22:58:00.001Z

If you are asked about fireworks and the New Year you're probably going to think of the Sydney Harbour Bridge or more recently the London Eye, but think again...

Funchal, the capital of Madeira puts on a show unrivalled anywhere in the world and whilst little known amongst the general travelling public it has made the Guinness Book of Records and is well known amongst the cruising (on boats) community.

For hours leading up to the year's end locals, hotels & restaurants create their displays, but at the stroke of midnight the skies above the town are alight with shock and awe. AND this is no quicky, 10 minutes later it is still going strong. It is spectacular, an experience which these words and pictures can not do justice. The scale if the things is huge, the explosions bounce around the mountains, the light fills the sky and smoke drifts across the town.

There are any number of spots to watch the display, out in the harbour is probably the best but requires a cruise holiday. The waterfront and pier is said to be excellent but the local knowledge says that ash and debris rain down on you or (and this was our choice) in the hills above Funchal - preferably from a private villa.

It is difficult to know where to look next, ignoring amazing explosions of colour can't be helped as bigger and better is happening in front, overhead, behind. GO just go, if you like to see in the New Year in style or want to tick a box of must see things then book a flight or a boat and a hotel and come see something very rare (to be fair you dont need a boat and a hotel - unless of course it's a very small boat!!).

Palm Springs

2007-10-11T23:06:00.000Z

Palm Springs, perfectly flat & perfectly manicured (both its gardens and residents) is surrounded by deserts and mountains and truth be told that's where its attractions lay. Unless of course you are a golfer, in which case the dozens of not quite so flat yet still perfectly coiffured greens will entertain you for months.

After a morning by our villas pool, we head up the aerial sky way via its rotating gondola, 8000ft later we emerge to pine forests, cool air and views which go on forever. We do though have to hike away from the top station to leave the rotund natives to thier up/photo/down routine and yet further still to gain the peace and quite this place deserves (I can guess why they are the size they are, but I'm not sure why they are as loud as they are?). Anyway it's nice up here and is a welcome change from the manufactured landscapes of the town visible like a patch work rug way below us.

The journey down on the gondola prooves entertaining partly due to the colourful views as the sun sets but mainly due to the afformentioned vociferous rotund natives screaming every time we sway over the tramway's pilons. I fight hard not to shout 'We're all doomed, we're all going to die!!' just to see what reaction it gets.

After a rest day by the pool (it is a holiday after all!) we head out to The Joshua Tree National park, which to be honest was a revelation for us (expectations were not too high). Landscapes or more accurately rockscapes, unusual and interesting made for excellent walking & being smack on top of the San Andreas fault line the added risk added to the adventure.

50 thousand hairy bikers

2007-10-08T23:26:00.000Z

Driving into Palm Springs from the north reveals what must be one of the biggest wind farms in the world, four thousand turbines of all shapes and sizes. Huge, they stand row upon row, mechanical regiments filling the valley and spreading up the foothills either side. One word from the general and California will be overrun.

click to enlarge

Somehow our visit has coincided with another invasion, fifty thousand Harley Davidsons are here for a rally and their riders are not the over fifties stock broker brigade who import Harleys to the UK (sorry S) they are the hairy arsed *conjecture Hells Angels wannabees and they are here to party. With these monsters thundering up and down the streets I have already given up hope of any sleep.

After the best night sleep I have ever had (go figure?) we start getting acquainted with Palm Springs...

Bright Lights, Big City

2007-10-06T17:52:00.000Z

We walk along the street, on our left the New York skyline, behind the great pyramid of Giza, ahead the Eiffel Tower. A double decker London bus passes, it's an open top so we get to see Elvis singing to the passengers. Yep, this can only be Las Vegas.

Our first night here we had pre booked the 'Cirque De Soleil', there are 4 different shows and we chose 'mystere' , all the ingredients of a traditional circus spectacularly brought into the 21st century. I wouldn't contemplate going to a 'normal' circus this thugh was incredible, so much so that we immediately booked for the KA show at the MGM, a very different yet equally unique and excellent. But for the fact that this is live action played out on the stage you would be looking for the special effects and camera trickery - go, you will not be dissapointed.

Whilst walking down the strip, fate has us bump into friends (newly made in Yosemite - hello Mary & Allan ) and so it being our first and their last night in Vegas it as only fitting to party till 4am, this though turned into the norm. We did get to bed at 1.30am to be ready for an early start the last day.

Whoopi begged for a photo with Kathy, which in the end Kathy agreed to just to stop her bothering us.

Whoopi denied marrying the french actor (and 'Bogus' co star) Gérard Depardieu, though I think this is due to the unfortunate name she ended up with!

As bizzare places go, Vegas tops the bill, we partied, gambled (lost our and other peoples money), drank, ate, drank some more, ate some more, gambled and lost some more. We walked the faux streets of Rome & Venice, saw pirate ships on Treasure Island, turned down the offer of a thousand girls delivered to our hotel room and even ate an authentic Australian New York steak in the Downunder Bar. This place is so wrong it is right, entertaining, addicitve, gaudy, full on ^ brilliant. Growing all the time, there will allways be reason to come back, and we will.

Death Valley

2007-10-04T08:42:00.000Z

Death Valley sucks us in and after a one night stand with El Diablo spits us out the other side. One night is enough here though as it turned out Death Valley was the liveliest place so far, or at least the bar was. As if the visitors & locals (what there are of them) are making up for the hot, dry solitary isolation.

Furness Creek has a motel, hotel, golf course and a gas station, nothing else. From here we zip up & down the obligatory tourist spots, marvel at the other worldly landscapes, get the photo ops, taste the salt (Badwater Basin is carpetted with crystaline Sodium Chloride) and get the Hell out of there. A day & a night is enough here - no more, no less.

Make it part of an east/west/east road trip.

And so to the end of the natural wonders, tomorrow Vegas and Lady Luck, no relation to Mother Nature!

Glacier Point

2007-10-02T00:42:00.000Z

Glacier Point is located on the south wall of Yosemite Valley at an elevation of 7,214 ft (2,199 m), 3,200 ft (975 m) above Curry Village. When you stand on the point and lean over the railing you can look straight down all 3,200ft. It's an amazing feeling.

Sunset at Glacier Point, I think that is a vertigo induced grimace on Kathy's face not a smile!

That little rock ledge sticking out in the background is famous for various 'daring' photos. If those two dancing ladies were to fall they would have 10 minutes to regret their little stunt before they hit the ground, still nice views on the way down!

This was the only day with clouds which made for an amazing sunset and an interesting moonlit drive down through winding mountain roads!

Half Dome at sunset viewed from Glacier Point

More Yosemite...

2007-10-01T00:53:00.001Z

First morning in Yosemite and within an hour our first bear sighting.

Stella Jays hop from branch to branch following our walk, it is as though they want attention.

Everywhere we look, massive vertical monoliths rise above us. The scale is hard to imagine, this is Mt Watkins and is not one of the big ones!

It's pretty dry here at the moment (late September), so rivers and waterfalls are dry. A return visit in May is a must!

El Capitan, climbers come from all over the world to scale this face. between 4 and 7 days sleeping in portable ledges. All their food and water miust be caried with them!

To give you an idea of scale of these Sequoia Trees, there is an old photo of this tree with 20 plus soldiers and their horses along the top of it!

It's BIG.

Stand under these monsters and look up, makes you feel small!

Hetch Hetchy Damn, over the edge!

Man of action ;)

After a 1000ft climb we make it to the base of Vernal Falls, the steep route down was not an easy one.

Mariposa Grove

2007-09-30T01:51:00.000Z

We are driving over an hour to see some trees, not something I would ordinarily do. Especially given that we are driving through miles and miles of trees to get there! These though are Tolkein's Ents, giants as old as the hills. The mighty sequoia redwoods, some at 2700 years old must be amongst the oldest living things on this planet. That fact alone makes the drive worthwhile but on the way there is a layby with a view that leaves me stunned, Yosemite valley in all its glory, seen from 6000 feet. If you are ever in this part of the world DO NOT miss 'Tunnel View' on interstate 41 and when you are there, remember to breath, little things like that go out of your head when you stand there mesmerised.

Mariposa Grove has various hiking trails winding through the hills, the further and higher you go the quiter and more immpressive it becomes.

We steal ourselves for a four hour hike looping through backcountry valleys to the summit at 6800 feet and down again. Humbled by these enormous trees we feel like Lilliputians in the land of giants sharing the trails with more deer and squirrel than fellow humans.

To give you a feel for the size of these Sequoia, 'California Tree' has a tunnel cut through its trunk, a tunnel high and wide enough to allow a horse drawn stage coach to drive through it and despite this tree butchery, the giant lives on growing another foot in diameter every decade.

The view from the summit is impressive, although Kathy's vertigo does not let her get too close to the edge it does mean she doubles her pace on the way down. Back at the car and we are tired, the ascent was 3 hours constantly up hill, the descent easier but still one and a half hours, for the second day running we have covered over 8 miles. It is though worth every step.

One last highlight on the drive home is an impromptu stop at what turns out to be ‘Valley View’, a scramble down through the bushes and balancing out onto the boulders in the river provides an excellent photo opportunity, mountains and their reflections.

Yo, Semity

2007-09-30T01:15:00.000Z

Words can not describe Yosemite, the hopeful amongst you will therefore expect that this blog will end now - bad luck!

It’s incredible, truly breathtaking. Beyond imagination (Yosemite, not this blog). Solid slabs of rock rise vertically 4000ft from forested valley floors cut with rivers and strewn with boulders, grown up boulders the size of houses. Our first morning in the park and we see deer, bear, coyote, chipmunk, squirrels, birds galore even a snake. Mother nature is putting on a show and she is on track for a best director, best film, and every other Oscar going. I can’t fit this spectacle in my head let alone in my camera lens, Ansel Adams worked magic to translate this beauty, this atmosphere to film. I really need to think about the photography, how to fit a vertical mile of rock into a 4 x 6 photo?

We hike 8 miles around mirror lake, the dry summer has left it waterless so it’s famous reflections will have to wait for a future visit, as we put distance between us and the hordes the quite of the backcountry wilderness takes over. Stella Jays, electric blue feathers lit by the mid day sun hop from branch to branch following our progress and deer cross our path, all this adds to the film set experience.

We eventually make it back to the visitors centre and grab sandwiches for a late lunch picnic & after a short drive we find a secluded spot on the Merced River bank, after lunch and a short walk along the bank reveals fresh bear tracks just 50 meters from our picnic table, time to make a hasty retreat!

Driving out, we stop to watch the rock climbers, these spidermen spend 7 days on ‘el capitan’ vertical and more for all its 4000ft they haul tents, food and water every inch of the climb. Nights are spent stitched to the wall, days scaling the cracks and fissures whilst friends and family watch on through telescopes from the valley floor.

Our first full day over and we can't wait to get back into the park tomorrow.

Roadtrip

2007-09-30T01:03:00.000Z

It's a long drive. The sort of drive which inspires road trip B movies. We head out from under the shadow of THE Hollywood sign and make our way through Hollywood Hills Dollar$ville out onto the freeway. A freeway winding its way through a surreal magic mountain theme park backdrop painted on to over sized hills & canyons, it does not feel real. After a couple hours of our own tarmac roller coaster we pop out from between the hills and everything changes. Hundreds of patch worked miles, olive trees and vines stretch away in all directions, as flat as God's ironing board.

The car drives itself, straight and steady for another couple of hours, on through Fresno the landscape begins to change again. Rock scattered foothills give promise of things to come and another 50 miles through forested valleys brings us to Yosemite View Lodge. From the roadside this place looks like a prison block, a drab grey 3 storied lump. We are here for 5 nights and we are worried! Don't judge a book by its cover though, the room is huge, the bed is huge, there's an Olympic sized Jacuzzi bath in the living room and a double shower in the bathroom! The balcony views look up & down the steep wooded valley and the Merced river tumbles over rocks below us. This'll do!

We started out next to the Atlantic & golden beaches, have driven 6 hours through hills, plains and mountains yet we have barely covered this huge state, after America itself this is the 2nd largest economy in the world. Scary to think the man they have put in charge is an ex Austrian body builder turned actor, Arnold "The Governator" Schwarzenegger.

Only in America!

Hollywood

2007-09-23T05:46:00.000Z

we've been sleeping in Dudley Moore's bed, it's OK because he is dead, mmm that came out wrong. He or at least his body is not in the bed with us, we are renting an apartment from his ex wife and along with the bed there are various other Dudley mementos here. This though is about the most normal thing about Hollywood.

On our first morning we went for pre (T bone steak and eggs) breakfast walk up Sunset Boulevard and down Hollywood Boulevard and were followed by spiderman, walked by superman and stepped around Death (scythe and all). The apartment is midway along Sunset Boulevard, if we drive west on the Boulevard for 12 miles we go through Beverly Hills and end up on Santa Monica beach (which we did), if we drive east we end up in down town LA and end up mugged, shot or mugged and shot. Apparently, DO NOT go here after dark and DO NOT wear red, blue or a bandanna as this signifies which gang you belong to (The Donny Massive, in case you were wondering).

Friday afternoon and Santa Monica beach is pretty amazing, the Yanks really know how to cater for leisure. There are gardens, walkways, shower blocks, parks, chess tables, exercise machines and even a tarmac 'road' running don the centre of the beach for cycling and rollerblading. That's me on the left flying the kite with the Baywatch lifeguard building and yellow 4x4s in front. Muscle beach is to my right, I decline taking my shirt off for fear of upsetting The Hoff and the muscle men;)

Saturday mid morning and the overnight storms have cleared up, we have a drive up Rodeo Drive, I buy some shoes at Macys then we park up at the again and head for a spot of lunch. As with all things food over here the sandwiches are massive, they come with a plateful of chips and end up being all we eat all day. The menu was a challenge, the choice and bizzare combinations leaves you with a migrane, in the end we settle on a simple beef sandwich.

we could have gone for any number of odd combos, how about a Peanut Butter, Jam, Marshmallow and Banana sandwich, rolled in Frosted Flakes for good measure? No Kidding, I just had to snap the menu with the cameraphone...

Next stop Yosemite...

Viva Las Vegas

2007-09-18T11:22:00.000Z

It's been a couple of weeks since the last holiday so with itchy feet, we're off again. This time America beckons us. We fly into LA and have 3 weeks to make our way to Vegas and back via Hollywood, Yosemite, Death Valley, Scunthorpe, The Grand Canyon and San Diego. OK well maybe not Scunthorpe but many other places in between.I'm really looking forward to

Yosemite, tripod and camera gear are stowed away already! As usual I will blog our adventures dropping in the odd photo along the way!

the last supper

2007-07-18T16:54:00.000Z

The last night is spent at Riad Dar One an excellent and well placed riad for £60, the roof terrace is perfect after a day exploring the souks.

Our last meal of course has to be Moroccan, must be on a roof terrace and surely involve puffing on a shisha (hubbly bubbly pipe)! Le Tanjia provides all the above and more.

The Terrace is sumptious and has great views of the city, the cocktails are just what the doctor ordered and set us up for a great evening. We order the house special which is a shoulder of Lamb for two to share, it had been slow roasted so the meat was tender, herbs and spices had infused the meat perfectly and in truth there was enough to feed a family of four! Not wanting to insult our hosts and in a fit of Yorkshire honour I finish the lot!

After coffee and deserts we round the night off with a shisha, the staff regurlary replace the hot coals whilst we smoke and finish our wine.

All in all a good end to an interesting ten days!

revelation

2007-07-18T16:32:00.000Z

Essaouira has far too many vowels (in fact all of them), double its consonants and like its name the place is unusual. In fact it's fair to say it far exceeded our expectations.

The port and old Medina are fortified, the city walls on the north bastion climb 20 meters straight out of the crashing Atlantic waters, old cannons point westward through crenellations, these are views film sets are made of.

There is a more laid back feel here than Marrakech, exploring the Medina is a relaxed enjoyable affair with very little "hassle", certainly nothing which can't be handled with a smile and a la shokran (no thank you). Each night's pre-dinner amble rewards with surprises, interesting artisan shops, art exhibitions, unusual architecture and Arabic culture full on in the souks. This is a very French resort though many visitors are from Maroc, Essaouira is I think Marrakech's Brighton.

For restaurants, explore the alleys and passages by following the many Riad... or Dar... signs. Whilst at first daunting, many excellent restored courtyards and homes can be found hidden away here, you will not go wrong with the marvelous Passage 24, Aude will welcome you in French or English and introduce her menu personally. We ate here twice and gave us by far our best meal in Morocco and we had many good ones, including Le Cinq at Riad Madada Mogador.

The constant sea breeze makes for bearable days and cooler nights, a welcome relief from the heat of Marakech. For Kathy and I, the temperature on an evening was perfect for short sleeved shirts. It was odd though to see the Moroccans wrapped up in jumpers and coats!

A week is too much in Marakech, too full on, too hard. Sharing your time with Essaouira will provide an extra depth to this facinating country.

In the morning we're back to Marakech for our last night before home.

Babel

2007-07-18T16:24:00.000Z

We head to Essaouira for 6 nights and decide to brave local transport. The 3 hour bus ride makes its way through miles of baron hills and farms, fortunately no one is shot!

We check into the Ocean Vagabond hotel just outside the old city walls and close to the beach. It's a small place with 15 or so well presented rooms and excellent friendly staff, in fact the most attentive staff anywhere, EVER!

200 years ago Essaouira was one of west Africa's major ports now it aims to be a major holiday destination. A long wide & clean sandy beach runs the length of the bay and a constant (actually, reliable) sea breeze as well as keeping the temperature in the mid 20s brings kite & windsurfers here from the world over.

The beach is long enough and wide enough to easily accommodate all comers. Beach football goes on day and night (floodlights & crowds included), the surfer dudes rip up the waves whilst families sojourn on the clean fine sands.

The old port with its many blue fishing boats, fish market & general goings on is a must, then on to the fort (10 dirhams entry) make this your first route into the Medina and you can't fail to be amazed at the view opening out before you as you walk from the port through the fort's archway. Tomorrow we will head into the heart of the city to explore.

dying to get in

2007-07-18T16:17:00.000Z

Dead people or at least their graves somehow make the must see list in all major cities. We start the day at "Tombeux Sadiens", at the north of the Kasbah, walled gardens, carved Arabesque arches and multicoloured tiled graves provide a cheap and peaceful way to kill (sorry!) an hour before the walk to "Palais Bahai". Here walled gardens, carved Arabesque arches and multicoloured tiled floors... OK so there is a theme here but it is worth it!

Cut through the Spice souk to get to Palais Bahia, the aroma and variety on offer are amazing. I'm not sure if the vendors seriously expect to sell me a demi-kilo of saffron but they get full marks for effort. Come early afternoon the temperature is pushing the low 40's, body and mind are somewhat heated so the Riad pool & a siesta beckons. This is July, it's hot and hence low season. Head here in April for an easier if more expensive visit.

One of the 7 wonders of the modern age, outdoor air con, a fine waterery mist sprayed into the air. We're at Kosybar for a sundowner before dinner, in the end we spend the evening and have a fine meal here. People watching comes a close second to bird watching, huge nests balance on every minaret, every ancient wall. The resident stalks watch the sunset with us, then once dusk arrives they take to the air to join darting swallows in thier own people watching ritual.

medina and macdonalds

2007-07-18T16:10:00.000Z

In an aim to see more of the city and get our bearings, we go for the full tourist experience, the evil that is the open top bus tour! The leaflet is vague about the schedule and the circles marking the stops so big on such a small scale map that actually finding one and being there at the right time would be a minor miracle.

Sure enough we get close to where we think we should be and there is the bus, disappearing into the distance. We walk the route a while and 20 minutes later flag the next one down, the bus immediately makes for the outskirts, the modern Marrakech. In fact all the areas to be avoided, it even has a stop called "the Macdonalds stop"! It does though eventually make it into the Medina where things get interesting, the route calls for a u-turn on a narrow crowded street. Mr bus driver just gets on with an 11 point turn, he doesn't use his mirrors. Gridlock & chaos ensue, bikes, cars, donkeys & people weave in and out of the maneuver, 10 minutes later we are on our way. The driver will make that turn ten times a day, gridlock & chaos are the norm here.

We escape the bus onto Jemaa El Fna, the main old city square, as always it's full on. Snakes are being charmed, shoes shined, drums beaten and tourists fleeced. Do we want a henna tattoo, do we want a hat, a freshly squeezed orange drink, a carriage ride, with money in my pocket I want for nothing. We make it onto a roof terrace for drinks and enjoy the spectacle from relative safety and comfort.

After a foray into the souks we wind our way back through hot dusty busy streets to the Riad Alma for lunch and an afternoon by the courtyard pool.

Jemaa El Fna square attacks your senses, all of them, all at once. Never more so than after dark where food stalls appear. Snails piled high, steamed & ready to eat. Tea & arabic cake. Smoke from flames dancing around unidentified meat fills the air. If you come to Marrakech come here, it's not an easy experience but it is an amazing one and it's a must. For the second time today we make good our escape, this time to Dar Zillij in the north of the Medina. Once in their courtyard peace & tranquility reign and the set menu provides a traditional Arabic banquet. Great food and amazing decor round off a mixed yet interesting day. Milo, taxi driver and opportunist language coach gets us back to the Riad in one piece.

Coming Ready or Not

2007-07-18T15:54:00.000Z

We fly three and a half hours and travel a thousand years.

We have just landed in Marrakesh, capitol of Morocco.

There can be no where else so close to England yet so culturally different, so unusual and so Biblical! Outside the Medina walls there are western hotels, karaoke bars and even a pizza hut. If this is your thing stay in London.

Within the Medina, narrow lanes crowded with bikes, donkeys, handcarts & street hawkers portrait the real Maroc, Marrakesh comes alive. Every arch, every alley promises a secret told only to the intrepid, there is only one way to experience this and that is to throw yourself at it, Marrakesh after all will throw itself at you!

We head for a favorite bar, The KosyBar in Place Des Ferbianders and immediately are lost in the Kasbah streets. As is often the case here hopelessly lost and wandering the streets we stumble on our destination. A good directional sense is a must, better than any map! After a tasty lunch we head back to Riad Alma for a siesta, and catch up from the 2 am start.

A reservation on the roof terrace of Cafe Arabé delivers an excellent meal in a great modern Arabic ambiance, this is a definite recommend for anyone wanting to gently break themselves into a Marrakesh visit.

Our taxi driver, Milo takes it upon himself to teach us a little Arabic and the locals more so here than other destinations love it when you greet & thank them in their own tongue. A little French though will ease you through a visit here.

Jets, Seals and a Single Malt

2007-06-20T20:08:00.000Z

Fighter jets scream overhead tearing up the sky, these are friendly skies though so we are safe to walk the golden sand. It's the last day of our week in Scotland so we intend to fill it with all things Scottish. We are on Findhorn beach, the highlands makeway to forest and the forest spills on to the beach. What a beach it is!

The tide is out and in the distance a dark mass promises a glimpse of something special. Intrepid, we set out to investigate with one eye on the horizon, one on the tide. As we approach, the mass becomes a hundred or so seals gathered in groups. Mothers, pups and bulls relax on the beach, watchfull eyes assess our approach for danger. For a while we keep our distance and experience the magic of nature at its very best, eventually curiosity gets the better of us, we get a little too close for their comfort and like a stack of dominoes they cascade into the water. A dozen heads bob in the water maintaining watch whilst others knife through the surf presumably in search of the next meal, with similar thoughts we head home.

After lunch we head out for the obligatory distillery tour, I enjoy a malt (or two) so head for the Cardhu distillery, also the spiritual home (haha) of Johnnie Walker blends. The whole place, or at least the whisky making process is manned by just two people, there are more staff for the tours!

It's strange to think that the guys making this famous whisky will not be able to taste the fruits of their labour for at least 12 years! A tour is well worth doing, it's sort of a blokes thing, machines, vats, barrels and all but it does end with a tasting session and everyone (of age) can join in that.

The grain hopper at Cardhu is no longer used, however some of the malts blended into that 18 year old Johnnie Walker you are drinking were ground through it!

That's the end of a great week in Scotland, back to Inverness airport and home to the summer rain and floods!

Plockton and giant safety pins

2007-06-20T19:25:00.000Z

It's a thriving metropolis, OK well for the highlands it's 1/2 dozen restaurants and pubs make this a major city especially after our 5 hour townless drive from Durness!

It's beautiful, in fact Kathy was convinced the backdrop was a film canvass painted in. When you stand on the harbour looking out it is hard to believe the view, I would try and describe it but they say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here are 2 thousand...

Duncraig Castle, dominates the bay. This was the subject of the BBC program 'The Dobsons of Duncraig' about the Nottinghamshire family who clubbed together to by and renovate the place.

There are plenty of B&Bs to choose from, they line the bay and all have great views. All over Scotland we have been treated to great hospitality and great food and for our three nights here we are booked into "The Plockton Gallery", Miriam (the proprietor extraordinaire) is hosting an exhibition during our stay so we ate our (fab) breakfast in the gallery surrounded by great art, with amazing views through the windows. Miriam, artist, art teacher, and queen of the Scottish breakfast entertains us with village life and points us in the right direction for galleries, shops walks, boat trips and restaurants. All in all, you won't go far wrong staying here AND you get a giant safety pin for good measure.

Callum's seal spotting boat trip is also worth an honourable mention. Callum's easy banter, the friendly atmosphere and almost gaurenteed seal spotting is an entertaining hour out on the water.

We also had drives out around the Wester Ross coastline and over to the Isle of Skye, blogs to follow...

You take the high road and I'll take the low road...

2007-06-20T10:17:00.000Z

From Durness, we head south. It's a long journey to our next stop Plockton but first a walk on the beach. Rocky coves, perfect sand and mountains for a backdrop, even the water is a crystal clear turquoise, these beaches rival any in the world! It's a shame summer is just a few short weeks.
On our long road south we pass through Ullapool, along the beautiful Loch Broom and on a whim follow signs for a waterfall.
There are a dozen of us on this narrow suspension bridge and it's swinging & swaying just a little too much for comfort. The water pounds the rock 190 feet below us carving this chasm ever deeper and the roar of the water echoing around the Corrieshalloch Gorge adds to the drama. The chasm is so narrow and the trees so thick that the bridge, or more to the point the drop takes you by surprise, you're on it before you realise.This was the point Kathy's vertigo kicked in, it was also the point at which she broke into a panicked run and in a strange run of coincidences it was also the point the bridge started to swing! Kathy makes it to safety while we all hang on and exchange nervous glances.

After a short walk in the forest we head back to the car, Kathy has to face the bridge again this time at a fast walk!

We continue south through more mountains, lochs, glens and rivers. Each valley has its own weather, atmospheric skies one sunshine the next!

Another hour or so in the car amidst amazing scenery and we make it into Plockton for 3 nights on the west coast.

Loch Ness to Durness...

2007-06-20T08:34:00.000Z

Just Pictures...

Cromarty Harbour

On The Road to Durness

Durness Beach

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Church

Scotland and it's sunny?

2007-06-14T18:16:00.000Z

Once again global warming is on our side, our first 24 hours on Loch Ness have been glorious, our first couple of nights are in a loch side B&B on the south bank in Dores.

The place is great and the views are spectacular.

Dores is in a state of shock, this tiny village (one pub, one post office & a dozen or so B&Bs) has just hosted Rock Ness. Thirtythree thousand revellers have just snuck out like a drunken one night stand leaving sleepy Dores to clean up the mess! We leave them to it & head out in search of Nessie.

First stop is Foyers and a walk through the forested valley side, well maintained paths lead us to various 'waterfall viewing points' but in truth the magnificent Victoria Falls is still fresh in our memories and as nice as this is it just can't compete. St Augustus at the lake's south west end is picturesque, has Scotland's largest canal vertical drop through 6 consecutive locks and unless you feel the need for a pub lunch shared with hoards of coach parties is not worth the stop. We head round the north shore in search of a quiter spot and take an hours boat trip taking in Urquhart Castle and fine views all round.

Finally a walk out from the B&B past the pub and along the loch's only beach, this certainly is a beautiful area and once again we have brought the sunny weather with us. Another great meal in the Dores Inn topped off the day nicely, tomorrow we head another 100 miles further north to Durness which means the sunset will be even later than the 11pm it is here!

Scotland the Brave

2007-05-28T13:20:00.000Z

The countdown is on...

The next trip is booked...

home again

2007-05-08T15:30:00.000Z

We're home again and the cool May air is very welcome, Egypt is blisteringly hot at this time of year, but it is the only way to beat the crowds and get the best bargains. This was our fourth trip and the history is as awe inspiring as ever, 15 years on we are also seasoned travelers and far more able to appreciate the differing cultures (and handle the inevitable culture shocks).

We can count on one hand the places we have visited three or more times, Luxor still feels like it is the first visit, there is always something new to learn, to see and to experience. Undoubtedly there are new treasures still to be found - Pharaoh Kheops whose tomb is the great pyramid ruled for more than 25 years, just one small statue has been found. It is strongly believed there is a cache of 'treasure' yet to be found.

Maybe I will go back with my shovel!!

2000 years young

2007-05-07T08:15:00.000Z

Denderra , this is a bit of an odd mix as temples go. The style is all wrong, quite frankly if you had commissioned it, you would want your money back, but let me start at the beginning...

It's is 60km up river from Luxor and the best way to visit is on a full day's river cruise (£35 per person including buffet lunch, all transfers, temple entry and guides - Jolleys again).

Cruising up the Nile is an amazing way to see the rural way of life, 99% of the population live within a mile or so of the river (flying in you see a thin green strip slicing the eastern and western deserts), after the hassle and bustle of the city this is an ideal respite. Children play in the river and farmers work the land - they all shout 'hello' and 'welcome', waving their arms in what looks like some mad competition to see who can get a response from us. We all wave back.

Denderra temple has remains from over FOUR THOUSAND years ago, but what you see there now is an Egyptian Temple built around two thousand years ago by the last native Pharaoh and at the time the Romans had over run Egypt. This site (more interesting than amazing) has a strange mix of styles, the carvings of the gods combine Egyptian and Greco-Roman symbols, the columns are very much Roman style and it is the site of the first zodiac carving. This place was built to convert the locals to the roman gods, hence introducing Roman symbols and gods to Egyptian carvings. The carving's are in raised relief, most other places are carved into the stone - and by comparison to temples twice as old, the quality is pretty poor as well. All in all it looks like a cheap rush job by the conquering Romans to convert the locals. But, who am I to talk - it's an amazing ancient monument, full of interest. You can go down into the crypt, up onto the roof (via a stone winding staircase), there are long tunnels full of carvings and a sacred lake. It shows the evolution of Egypt perfectly.

As I walk round I split away from the group to take pictures without too much human clutter and every time I take a photo I turn around to move on and there's a polish lady waiting to take exactly the same picture it was a little bizarre, although she stopped short of taking the same picture of Kathy in front of a statue!

The smile of the day came after we had arrived at the temple and the guide made the joke about the temple being only 2000 years old and therefore it's one of the new ones. One of the little old dears came out with 'it does look new doesn't it - in very good condition', the bloke next to her replied 'Mother, this is the ticket office and toilet block'

We cruise back to Luxor and even take afternoon tea and cake - how civilised!

it's all just ancient history

2007-05-05T13:39:00.000Z

Well we have had a busy three days doing everything and nothing! Luxor is like that - it is hot, brutally hot in the mid day sun 40 to 45 degrees! So to go see the sights you have to get up early and beat the sun and the crowds, then you are back at the hotel for mid morning and you do nothing all day (apart from the pool, the bar, the pool and back to the bar again - our hotel had a pool bar which made it even easier to do nothing).

So what have we done? Well the first job was to book everything via Jolleys - use them for the best price [1/2 the tour company's] for equal if not better quality, they are in a little glass fronted shop 100 metres or so from The Winter Palace and have been on the go since 1922!

Wednesday...

The west bank, home to the valley of the kings and 'tut ankh amon's tomb, which this time we give a miss. Instead we have hired a driver, air conditioned minibus and Egyptologist (£35 for both of us, for a 6 hour private tour - go figure!) and have a tour out to see Habu temple (amazing carvings still with all their coloured paints).

Next the valley of the artisans (amazing tombs) - these guys painted the tombs for the Pharaohs so had to be good, they did their own places even better. Queen Hetshepsut's temple - she was the only female Pharaoh and was probably the first to burn her bra (along with anyone challenging her rule), we also revisited the Ramesseum - not in the best condition but hey it's 3000 years old! and there is carved graffiti dating back to 1820!

Thursday...
Luxor temple at dusk, this place is breath taking, the lighting is great so I took along the tripod for some serious photographs. Try and get there first thing or last thing in the day to avoid the crowds and the heat - in fact do both as it is two very different experiences. Walking around here you start to feel what it could have been like 3400 years ago.

Friday (morning 5am)...

Hot air ballooning over the west bank. We've always wanted to do this and for 35 quid a person now was the time, floating serenely over the Nile, the western desert and the monuments was pretty special, we had a gentle landing in a corn field (which the farmers think is great as they get paid well for the crop damage), we even made it back to the hotel for breakfast at 9am.

One of the bingo brigade was on the bus taking us to the take off point and the street sellers were in full form. He was selling hard and she did not know how to say no, in the end she bought a sarong/wrap just to get rid of him, once we were moving she looked at it and said "I have no idea what it is, what is it? what am I supposed to do with it? I think I would have preferred it in blue" a fool and her money...

and I was offered a blank cheque for Kathy!!!

mumified...

2007-05-03T06:40:00.000Z

Well were off on our travels again and this time it is Egpyt.

We check in early & make our way to the gate, disappointed not to bag the emergency exit seats (it's a 5 1/2 hour flight and the extra leg room would have been most welcome) the flight is almost full though and the seats have gone! Luxor is home to antiquities and judging by this crowd more are going out there, it seems the ancient attracts the ancient! The call goes out for the elderly and infirm to board first and after the dust has settled Kathy and I are alone at the gate (codgers: 1, cuttsy:0) The plane is only half full, it's the rear half which is full - packed in fact! There is no one upfront at all, in fact the trolly dollies have to move people forward AND ensure the empty exit seats have people in them, just in case. It's a stretch, they need able bodied people and there are not many of us on board! (codgers:1, cuttsy:1).

We make it to Luxor and the transfer coach, the bingo brigade flash their bus passes and once again bag the best seats, we though play our trump card and jump in a private mini coach!(codgers:1, cuttsy:2 - game set and match) that'll learn em!

We start our first full day with a cruise on the Nile into Luxor town, things have indeed changed since our last visit 15 years ago, gazing through the three thousand year old columns we see the new McDonalds with it's red and yellow sign, towering above everything there is a telephone mast, the 21st century obelisk to match the original. I guess this is what is known as progress!!!

Next we hit the souhk and despite the tripadvisor warnings it is the normal Arabic market banter. Yes everyone wants you to look in their shops, buy cheapy cheapy gold, take home half a kilo of spice 'asda price' but the alley cafes are packed with wizened old arabs drinking tea and puffing on the the apple shishas, doorways offer glimpses of artisan workshops and the whole place moves to the clamor of people making a living. I love all this, after all it is why we travel. This is not hassle this is experience, we throw ourselves in headfirst and keep smiling.
Which is what I do despite the comments from the hawkers "you a very lucky man", "does she have a sister", "buy one get me free" - Kathy is loving it!
one cheeky bugger even come out with "Sir, you have a beautiful daughter, is she married" by this time Kathy is really enjoying herself!

After an afternoon by the pool we head in to town for an Egyptian meal in a little restaurant hidden in the back streets - this is traditional arabic with the call to prayer from the mosque next door adding to the atmosphere. All in all we have had a full and enjoyable first day. Tomorrow we head out to the west bank to see some of the sights, I am looking forward to seeing the tomb of Queen Hatshepsut, this is 3700 years old and is in excellent condition, Dulux take note there are wall paintings which still retain all their colour!!!

it seems like an age

2007-04-10T10:50:00.000Z

Well back home just 3 weeks and it seems like an age ago! hey ho, never mind. Sorted the photo's out and have started a regular blog (just my random ramblings) both can be found at:

www.cuttsy.com

photo's are via picassa at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/cuttsy1966

and blog is via http://theyorkshirepost.blogspot.com/

We will return to this blog once we are on our travels again (not too long I hope)

homeward bound

2007-03-23T09:19:00.000Z

Africa is relaxed, some would say slow when you arrive it takes time for the body clock to reset. Once set to Africa time though you start to enjoy the chilled nature of the people, they NEVER rush, they take time to stop and say hello, to talk and to smile. Everywhere we have been people smile and say hello, they ask us how we are, they are interested, they wish us well.

We have a 30 hour journey, 4 airports, 3 countries and 2 continents and we arrive into a snowy Heathrow, the M25 is jammed. The journey though is not one of geography, it is across a cultural divide, we're back in England, no one smiles, no one says hello and no one stops to talk.

It's gloomy and I don't mean the weather!

Africa, we will be back.

Life’s a beach

2007-03-21T17:30:00.000Z

Matamwe beach village is our finale and we big it up in the rather posh ‘asali’ suite, right on the beach and with it’s on chef, security guard and plunge pool in the centre of the living area this is a room and a half!

We can order anything we want for dinner, cooked & served in the suite – private dining gone mad, we opt for crab and avocado salad to start, followed by fillet steak with ice cream to finish (somehow we have managed not to have ice cream for the past 25 days). The crab turns out to be crab claws – HUGE crab claws, crab claws from a monster crab, the sort of crab that captain Nemo would run from, they taste good.

We make it out to Mnemba atoll for snorkelling, it’s a 40 minute dalla dalla (local bus contraption) to the boat and a 30 minute sail to the reef. The dalla dalla ride is horrific, 2 minutes of entertainment and 38 minutes of spine crunching, ar$e numbing pain – it had better be worth it.

IT IS!

I’ve dived and snorkeled the barrier reef, the red sea, marine reserves in St Lucia and a few other top sites but this beats the lot, the quantity and variety of fish are amazing, the colours of the coral vivid, and the water clarity is fantastic – if this is your thing consider Zanzibar for your next holiday.

In the middle of the Indian Ocean, the air quality is fantastic and the light pollution is zero, the night sky is breathtaking – you can see not just stars but the glow of gas clouds, it's spectacular.

The last evening in Africa was surreal to say the least, Matemwe Beach had a 'curry night' presumably feeding us the British national dish to ready us for home!

Needless to say the buffet was great and the traditional indian band entertaining even when (and here is the sureal bit) they sang 'My bonny lies over the ocean', which we surmised as an old Irish sea shanty had made it over to the indian ocean. then they sang The Beatles yellow submarine!!

dongwe beach

2007-03-19T11:49:00.000Z

We arrived at Dongwe to the breezes zanzibar resort on the east coast and a few miles from any villages, the soft sandy beaches stretch forever and the ocean colours are amazing.

We sit out on the beach for a few mornings and watch the sunrise, local men are out spear fishing and the water is calm.

This is tourist africa, we have entertainment every night, acrobats, tribal dances, complete with feather dusters in their hair and even a saxophonist, not quite authentic but entertaining none the less even if its for all the wrong reasons.

The island of mnemba is on the horizon and it is one of the top diving sites in east africa if not the world, so after many years of snorkelling and scuba try outs I book into the dive school to get certified.

3 full days starting with a swimming pool session and then 4 open water dives on the reef with (intense) reading and homework to do in between, culminating in an exam on the 4th morning. The dives are fantastic, loads to see with some skills training and tests in the water. I score 98% on the exam and leave dongwe as a qualified padi open water diver. Although the downside is they don't let me keep the rubber outfit!

What dave keeps forgetting to mention in his blogs is that this trip has enabled him to find his feminine side. He has started turning into David Beckham pre 2000. Yes you've guessed it he's started wearing a sarong, be it in a masculine green colour. its quite amusing watching him sit down in it as all he keeps saying is how do woman manage to wear them. I think he would have something to say if I sat with my legs spread as wide as he does.

Anway I'm sure daddy cutts will have words on our return and the sarong will be banished to the bottom of the wardrobe and only brought out for special occassions.

Zanzibar Culture

2007-03-14T07:00:00.000Z

Stone Town was the colonial capital of ‘the spice island’ unfortunately since Tanzanian independence 50odd years ago none of the many splendid buildings, balconies and arches have been maintained, painted or even cleaned, apart from the beautiful intricately carved doors (it’s famous for them). When this place falls down (and I’ll give it 10 years tops!) the doors will be all that is left.

Still despite it’s rough and ready feel, we wandered the narrow alleys, browsed the stalls and shops but made sure did not partake in the food on the hawker stalls of the night market (one risk too many me thinks) and generally enjoyed the slightly scary, slightly amusing Afro/Arabic mix.

If you’re ever here try the spice tour, the Shwartz spice rack contents in your kitchen almost certainly started out here and it was more interesting than I expected (that’s the tour not your spice rack), plus you can buy handfuls of vanilla pods, nutmeg and cinnamon for a couple of quid.

Next, Jambiani village to start the beach bit, we arrived via what is locally know as the main road – in reality it’s the gaps between the buildings, there are more cows, goats & chickens than vehicles!

We crash on the beach for 4 days and do nothing. Our laziness is interrupted hourly by the local kids…

“Jambo, jambo, pen for school?”
“Jambo, jambo, chocolate?”
“Jambo, jambo, football?”
“Jambo, jambo, t-shirt?”

This is one of the poorest places in the world, tourism is helping but apart from a couple of places on the island the big hotels and big money has not arrived – just the back packers, the kids are entertaining if not a little persistent.

At low tide the water recedes almost 2 miles, the local ladies come out to harvest the farmed seaweed and collect coconut husk pinned under rocks overnight. We walk out amongst them past stranded fishing dhows and make for the rock pools nearer the waters edge – there are many crabs and little fish around but for the bigger stuff a boat trip is required to get out to the reefs.

Next stop the attractively named Dungwe.

Safari's End...

2007-03-14T06:52:00.000Z

Our last night in camp was again eventful. Firstly I (KC) woke up convinced there was a warthog on the tents veranda area and so woke Dave up, who on further inspection pointed out it was in fact an impala, 20 feet away. A few hours later we both woke up to loud growls outside the tent and visions of angry lions on the prowl flashed through our minds. False alarm as it was just a very angry hippo having a bit of a moan & shout.

The next morning a quick breakfast, off to catch our twelve-seat plane to Zanzibar. On the way, we had to make a stop at another camp to pick some more guests up and supposedly drop one guest off. Unfortunately when we landed it appears the guest had other ideas and had actually gotten off already at the wrong camp (unbeknown to the pilot). Next stop Dar Es Salaam to change planes for Zanzibar. Thankfully the plane was waiting for us so off one twelve seater onto another. On board there was only 2 seats left so I grabbed the window seat and buckled up, turned around only to see the door had been closed and no Dave. In a very nervous voice I called out his name only for him to shout back “hello”.
Yes you’ve guessed it, he was only bloody sat next to the pilot in the cockpit with a grin spread from ear to ear, oh well at least that meant I got a bit of peace for the next 20 minutes. And we did not crash!

Selous...

2007-03-07T07:05:00.000Z

We land on a dirt track, there are two impala males going horn to horn on the runway fighting for territory & the female herd. If the 12 seater propeller plane hits them their dominance worries are over (and perhaps mine). Our pilot uses all his skill & many years experience to avoid the showdown. He is 23 and has a tube of pringles on his lap!

It's an open camp 20 meters from the river, animals can and do wander in especially at night. On arrival we get the safety briefing:
> Never run from Elephants.
> Do not leave the tent after dark without an escort.
> Drink 4 ltrs of water every day. This makes me want to leave the tent on my own & pee in a bush (or on an elephant thus showing my dominance!)

We get little sleep on the first night, hippos chomp, bellow & trample meters away, all around us. In the morning we are awoken to fresh coffee delivered to the front of the tent and an elephant padding past the rear.

Three days of game drives there are giraffe by the hundreds, we have seen our first kill (only an eagle taking a lizzard though!) and tracked cats by following the circling vultures, finally being rewarded with lions and an impala carcass.

Our last drive is spent looking for leapord, we follow fresh tracks & check every tree but this is rainy season, food is plentiful and the grass is long, no sighting! I'm sure they saw us though.Next stop Zanzibar.

sorry uncle marshall

2007-03-07T07:03:00.000Z

this publication apologises to the great nation of South Africa for any slander incurred due to comments about cheese and 'Saltycrax', apparently they are nice (sorry Great Uncle Marshall, as a Cape Town resident I'll take your word for it - but you can keep th monkey gland burgers)

In the Money

2007-03-01T19:50:00.000Z

We leave the outlook lodge this morning (if your ever in jo'berg stay here!) and fly to tanzania. The moment we land we're millionaires, I hold a 500 shilling note in my hand adorned with pictures of impressive buildings and a majestic rhino, it's worth 20 pence. we check into The Holiday Inn.

I wash my boxers and socks and hang them to dry from the balcony, tomorrow we jump on a 12 seater plane to selous safari camp, our future king and his boys stayed recently. I wonder if they hung their smalls out to dry here?

A Grand Day Out

2007-02-28T17:15:00.000Z

We are close to the 4 way border of Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe & Zambia, so we crossed the river to Chobe reserve park in Botswana for a days Safari. Chobe is 11,700 square kilometres with 100,000 elephants.

The Kazangula river crossing (plus immigration. plus street vendors, plus drunks) was an adventure in itself – more than compensated though by everything from a tortoise, through pregnant Hyena to a game of chicken - truck versus huge bull elephant. Apparently, you have to face them down – occasionally the trucks lose!

The morning boat safari, 3 hours spent cruising along the Chobe river (amongst the hippos and crocks!). An hour at the lodge for lunch, then back out in the 4x4 jeep, it’s low season so we had it to ourselves.

Looking out across the Chobe river we have a 40 strong hippo pod in the shallows, wading birds on the banks and fish eagles soaring above, then out of the bush, trumpeting with delight a family herd of elephants dash and splash into the water. The babies as excited as any kid going to the seaside – magical!

We watch for 30 minutes as the herd go through the daily ritual of drinking, then washing, then digging for salt in the shallows, after this they queue at various mud baths for their turn to role and cover themselves with mud, there is a very specific social order dictating who gets first go at the mud. Only the babies get to break this rule (and every other). Then after covering themselves with dry sand they congregate for a social gathering.

After a full day we head back to camp threatened by the rising waters of the Zambezi – the rains in central Africa are heavy and it is expected that the high water mark will reach the same as the great flood of 59!

The water is just breaching the suspension bridges (between the stilted tent platforms), this has risen 1 meter since our arrival just 4 days before! We are the last guests staying here as the lodge will now have to close, phew!

Worlds Apart

2007-02-28T17:08:00.000Z

Today we took a walk through a typical Zambian Village, I wondered if this would be a staged affair but no tribal dancing troops with feather dusters stuck in their caps here! Here people were getting on with their lives, children gutting fish and ladies baking bread in convection ovens contrived from termite cement and scavenged car parts, genuinely warm friendly people and children eager, laughing and pointing to see their photos on the camera LCD.

We walk around a village of huts made from the mud taken from termite mounds which thanks to an adhesive in the termite saliva sets like concrete, the roofs are thatched cones from the long grass surrounding the area – this is self build. There is no electricity (meat is hung to dry to preserve) but recently they have had a communal tap installed (thanks to the lodge), which filters the Zambezi. I declined the offer of a drink.

Many lodges are built on tribal land bought or rented from the village chief, where a symbiotic relationship develops between the villages and the lodges. Siankaba has bought the land from the local headman and employs most of the men in the village, as well as supplying drinking water it funds the local school, and many lodge visitors also make donations. In a country of 70% unemployment and $40 average monthly wage this is a win/win deal.

We canoe (in a dug out Makorro) back to the lodge past families washing clothes and themselves in the river. Here, 4 weeks ago a young girl was mauled by a croc, saved only by the rest of the family luckily winning the tug of war with the croc. The canoe feels very small and very unstable!

Animal Magic

2007-02-28T17:01:00.000Z

Our first game drive in the ‘mosi-o-tunya’ park, a small reserve next to Victoria Falls, which turned out to be a successful start to our animal spotting…

Baboon, bison, buffalo, crocodile, elephant, fevet monkeys, giraffe, hippopotamus, impala, warthog, white rhino, wilder beast, zebra and the pet cat from the resort!

But by far the most moving experience was the early morning boat trip back at the lodge. The guide Chris and myself 10 meters off shore in a canoe watching an elephant on the banks of the river and over the next 10 minutes a family group of 30 elephants padded out of the bush to join it, drinking at the waters edge.

An amazing sight to see the bulls guarding on the outer edge of the group, the females along the waters edge watching for crocs whilst the babies drank from the river.

I’m grinning like a Cheshire cat!

Tongabezi or bust

2007-02-23T12:54:00.000Z

So many things to talk about it’s hard to know where to start!

The Room: indeed has no walls, we have without doubt ‘a loo with a view’ each morning we are awoken around 6am with by Hippo’s grunting, monkey’s howling and bird’s singing. In some strange way the mossy net around the bed makes us feel safe.

The Sunset River Cruise: on the first night here was fantastic, in a 16ft powered canoe off we went to experience the Zambezi. Brian our river guide explained his expertise in the animals & about the attack zone for hippos and how to avoid getting in their personal space. Fortunately for us his expertise for getting out of their personal space very quickly also came in handy. Being chased by an angry hippo certainly introduced us to Africa.
Hippos kill more humans than the ‘Big 5’ combined!

The Crocs: we haven’t seen one yet but we have eaten one (not a whole one though).

The Elephants: sitting on the back of a bull elephant as it sways through the game park ripping up whole trees for exercise certainly made for an interesting start to Kathy’s birthday. As always a close up experience with these beautiful animals never fails to impress.

The Falls: as you walk closer the thundering of the water can be heard, multiple rainbows appear in the mist and then the shear awesome power of the water surging over the almost 1.8km long falls opens up before you, a truly spectacular sight but this is only the start. Trekking the opposite precipice of the gorge, the mist turns to drizzle, to rain and then to tropical downpour culminating in a walk over a narrow footbridge hundreds of feet up whilst being hit from every angle by water, this is one experience not to be missed (or climb inside your washing machine an set it to 30 degrees spin cycle, it’s probably similar).

The Helicopter: offers a very different (and dryer) view of the falls, we opted for an extended 30 minute flight which not only gave amazing Vic Falls views but also gave the pilot time to scare Kathy silly by flying into and through the gorge before passing over the game reserve where we spotted elephant, giraffe (Kathy pointing this out shouting “look Zebra”) and the 2 white rhino (very elusive from the ground).

The Friends: we met with Brad and Josie for beers after the heli flight to catch up on their amazing trip – half a year making their way from England to Australia. Complete coincidence to be in Livingston at the same time, read all about their trip at http://therudducks.blogspot.com/

The Snake: Drama back at Tongabezi with the staff throwing stones at a snake to chase it off the reception stairs before they let us pass. Chande kindly informed us that the anti venom for this (deadly) spitting cobra is not available in the area! We hurried back to the room to get behind the all-protecting mosi netting.

The Meal: floating on a private candle lit barge on the Zambezi was I am sure a delight for the mosquitoes however we gave up feeding them and returned back to dry land for our main course and power cut to end the birthday evening (candles lit up the riverbank, walkways and rooms which was all very lovely).

The End: It has been a long and packed day – we’re going to slow down tomorrow with a couple of game drives and some R&R time in the day.

Cling Film, Monkey Gland Burgers & Salty Cracks…

2007-02-20T21:44:00.000Z

Now Jo’berg is renowned for being not the safest place to visit, recent news reports show people being car jacked whilst waiting at red lights in broad daylight! A quick check on the Internet highly recommends security-wrapping luggage to dissuade baggage handlers rifling through your gear and having it away with your best frilly knickers (not mine you understand).
So it was with a cheery wave goodbye and final good advice from Kelve to “not stop at red lights and under no circumstances walk anywhere in Jo’berg” that we headed for the luggage security desk. Call me old fashioned (or a tight Yorkshire git) but £10 for what turned out to be 30 yards of cling film wrapped around our cases seems a little excessive – but hey ho, better safe than sorry!

12 hours later…
Call it coincidence if you will but the last 2 cases off the luggage belt were indeed the only 2 cling wrapped items – the international frilly knicker thieves had conspired to hold our bags till last, no doubt to repay the obvious trust we had in their honesty!

Having successfully negotiated the ‘sorry, no booking in that name’ conversation (which explained the lack of driver to pick us up from the airport) we made it to the lodge.

The safety conscious amongst you will be pleased to know that on our walk to the local shops for lunch we did not stop at any red lights and did not mug any locals!

What the hell is a “monkey gland burger”? it was on the menu and no I didn’t ask – I didn’t want to know!

2 steak dinners, a bottle of wine, a beer and a coke later we paid the £13 bill (Kathy was convinced she had screwed the exchange rate up – but it is really is that cheap) we headed to the local minimart to get a snack in for the evening, I don’t know about you guys but I’m not putting my mouth near anything called saltycrax…

these guys really need help naming their food a little more attractively!

ready, steady, go...

2007-02-18T11:52:00.001Z

Well time to pack, and due to some of the safari flights being in 12 seater rust buckets and no tactical options to leave luggage anywhere we are limited to 15 kilos total each.

Somehow we've gotta squeeze all our clothes, cameras, tripods, medical packs, binoculars, sun tan cream (Kathy insists this can't be bought in Africa so were packing 2 gallons to take with us!) and tea bags into small bags weighing no more than 15kgs each!

I guess once I have all my tripods and lenses packed Kathy is going to have to unpack some of her shoe collection to make the weight limit - oh well :)

After a brief stop in Jo'berg we're heading for Victoria Falls - (Mosi-oa-Tunya, the smoke that thunders) - and having looked at weather.com to see thunder storms forecast it ain't just the falls making all the noise!

Our first port of call is The Tongabezi Lodge staying in 'the bird house' - this has walls to 2 sides only the rest being open to the elements, thunderstorms and no walls!

In fact it is open to the elements and the local wildlife - and no walls, mmm...

check out this nightime visitor!

if we make it through the first week I'll blog an update!